GUIDE TO RONDE WHEELS

 

All Ronde wheels have carbon rims, produced using Toray fibres. Carbon has a very high strength to weight ratio, making all our wheels strong yet light whichever combination of rim design, width and depth you go for. 

What features are right for me?

 

Wheel size: 700c or 29" 

 

The standard size for a road or cyclocross wheel is 700c. Traditionally, mountain bike wheels were smaller and sized in inches; however, modern MTB wheels are the same size as standard wheels but are described as 29".  If you are buying 29" MTB wheels, you must have a correctly sized MTB frame, such as the Fossa XC:29.  

 

Brake selection: rim or disc 

 

Rim brakes, as the name implies, work by applying pressure to the wheel rims. Calliper brakes are a rim-braking system found on road bikes, while cantilever brakes are used for rim-braking on cyclocross bikes. Both are extremely lightweight and work with standard wheels and frames.  

 

Disc brakes work by applying pressure to a disc-shaped braking surface mounted at the wheel hub. Disc brakes have greater stopping power and don't wear down the wheel rim; however, they are heavier than a rim-braking system and require correct mounts on both the wheels and the frame. If you're interested in wheels for use with disc brakes, check out our disc-compatible frames: the Fossa pace:cd SL, cyclo-x:cd or XC:29

 

Rim width: narrower vs wider 

 

The narrower the rim, the lighter the wheel. Lighter means faster, right? But that's not the whole story. There is evidence that wider rims may be more aerodynamic. Also, you can achieve a more rounded tyre profile with a wider rim, especially for the wider types of MTB tyre, giving you better grip performance.    

 

Rim type: clincher or tubular 

 

Clincher rims are the most common. They have a classic U-shaped profile and are generally used with an inner tube within a tyre. We supply clinchers for road, cyclocross and MTB.  For off-road riders it's worth noting that our clinchers can be used tubeless - that is, without an inner tube This involves applying special rim tape to seal the rim and make it airtight. Then when the tyre is fitted, tyre sealant is introduced to seal up any tiny holes in the  tyre. A tubeless setup allows you to run lower tyre pressures, giving better deformation and hence grip. Providing the sealant is replaced a couple of times a year, any minor punctures will be self-sealing. 

 

Tubular tyres, or 'tubs', are hand-finished tubes incorporating both tyre and inner tube in a single piece. Rims for tubular tyre have a flat profile to which  the tub is glued. Tubs are lighter and can be run at lower pressures without the risk of pinch punctures associated with clinchers.  On the road the reduced weight is an advantage and the ride improved, and off-road the greater deformation increases grip. All top cross riders use tubular tyres, but a degree of knowledge and skill is required to apply them. 

 

Rim depth: deep or extra-deep 

 

Optimum rim depth is a compromise between weight, strength and aerodynamic profile. A shallower rim is lighter and gives a comfortable ride. A deeper rim is stronger but adds weight. On the road, a deeper rim can improve aerodynamics - but as the depth increases, so does the surface area you present to a crosswind! Off road, a deeper rim can increase stability when riding through deep mud. Balancing these factors comes down to personal choice.

 

Still not sure what you need? Give us a call and we'll do our best to advise you.